Lansdowne and the art of doing nothing
Ironical indeed is the fact that managing Online Travel for tourist leaves you weary and tired and with little time to plan or take a break. So, just at a time when the power corridors of Delhi were witnessing frenzied activities, anticipating eagerly the results of the 15th Lok Sabha, I thought the time was just ripe enough to take a short break from the daily grind and move out from Delhi.
The rising mercury made the choice easier to settle for the cooler climbs in the Garhwal Hills. We zeroed on Lansdowne (the colonial hangover is yet to get over!) at approximately 250 kms from Delhi.
To avoid the unusual messy traffic of the Meerut City we started early in the morning 5.30 am to be precise and whizzed past the Western UP heartland without any headaches. From Bijnor onwards it was National Highway 119 all the way. Nearing Najibabad we were greeted with Mango orchards on both sides of the road. Green Mangoes dangling from the trees waiting to be plucked.
The route we followed was Delhi -Mohan Nagar-Meerut- Mawana-Bijnor-Kiratpur –Najibabad- Kotdwar-Lansdowne.
We were at Kotdwar 10.15 am and without the sun really burning overhead. The dashboard indicated we had traversed already 230 kms.
The ascent for Lansdowne begins from Kotdwar the distance being another 45 km. The road meandering along tall Pine trees and occasional glimpse of the high peaks is a beauty to drive. Another 1 hour and we were knocking at the check post of this quaint hill station.
At 5597 feet, Lansdowne it seems is engulfed in a time warp which maintains its stranglehold over the entire place not withstanding that Garhwal Rifles has its Regimental centre here. Perhaps here lies the true beauty of Lansdowne, a hill station reveling in the glory of a kind of laidback attitude. This is reflected here on anything and everything around. From Hotel owners, the Dhabas, to people around nobody seemed too eager to leave any kind of impression.
We booked a place in a hotel called Oak Grove Inn located 6 Kms further from Lansdowne in a secluded place called Jaiharikhal. The hotel it seemed emanated from nowhere at the side of the road. The balcony provided excellent view of the Himalayan hills though and that’s it. The best part about Oak Grove Inn was its beautiful garden full with flowers and plants of myriad hues where I spent a lot of time quietly gazing at them and praising the owners.
( We Stayed At Hotel Oak Grove Inn)
As we were not that much inclined to do a trip of the nearby temples and settled for a lake named Bhula Tal instead. Bhula Tal is not anything near to your idea of a lake still it is good sight surrounded by pine trees and machaans. There is also a park for kids adjoinig the lake with few rides . We did boating for an hour or so before feeling tempted to call it curtains for the day.
(Bhula Tal Lake)
The next day we headed for the Tip-in- top or Tiffin top, the summit of Lansdowne and a popular vantage point.
(Tiffin Top gives a panoramic view)
Nearby is the St Mary church one of the oldest churches in India is located here. It has beautiful stained glass windows and houses some of the vintage photographs and an av display of the Regimental history. A short distance away is the St. John’s Church set up in 1934 and the only church of worship in Lansdowne can be an ideal setting for some serious contemplation about your very existence.
If you are a museum aficionado you could head for the Regimental Museum located at the Garhwal Rifles Regimental Center. Named after Naik Darban Singh, who was awarded Victoria Cross during WW1, the museum showcases the valour of Garhwal Rifles. The whole place takes you the bygone days of the Raj.
On our return journey we decided to hop on at the Siddhbali Temple at Kotdwara. The temple with the picturesque Kho River rushing by is dedicated to Hanumanji. It is perched above a small hill and you have to climb around 150 steps to reach the sanctum sanctorum.
(Steps of Sidhbali Temple at Kotdwar)
It was crowded with a large number of devotees. We were told that every Sunday, there is a “Bhandara” organized and the bookings are full till 2011. Amazing isn’t it?
( The View of the Parking from the Sidhbali Temple at Kotdwar)
The best way in Lansdowne is to go for trekking short, long as your physiology permits and is perfect for people who prefer to spend some time taking a backseat.
Accommodation
Accommodation is limited to few hotels and Rest Houses run by GMVN. Hotels are mainly located at the Gandhi Chowk or the main market area.
(Gandhi Chowk sees the Hub of activites at Lansdowne)
Two hotels located side by side are the Tourist Hotel and Hotel Mayur. 3 km before Lansdowne is the Blue Pine Resort. Retreat Anand is one for which sign boards are splashed at many points on the the highway as you enter Lansdowne. Another very good option is the GMVN(Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam) tourist bungalows which are located at two places. While the primary one is near to the Gandhi Chowk on way to Jaiharikhal, the other one is at the more scenic Tiffin Top where it provides accommodation including cottages and a couple of machan-type bamboo huts.
(Hotel Mayur has a Restaurant also)
Few points worth remembering
(i)If you are not staying in the main happening place of Lansdowne that is the Gandhi Chowk area and want to have lunch/dinner in the hotel you stay, do not forget to ping them beforehand for it. Good chances are there not doing so can leave you hungry for the day!
(ii)Be careful about your petrol requirements. I did not find any Petrol Pump at Lansdowne. However I did spot a signage just 5 km before Lansdowne “Diesel Available Here”. As for the petrol we had to purchase it from a Grocery shop located on a narrow lane downhill from Gandhi Chowk. Obviously it came for a premium and you never know the quality!
(iii) As the choice of accommodation is very limited it is always better to book and then go.
By Ankit Rastogi
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