We are starting a new series on places associated with the Colonial powers that came to trade with India and in the process stayed back, gained contriol- charmed by the lure of its vast treasures and beatific landscape. Apart from the Britishers those who tried and had their fortunes in India were Dutch, Portuguese, Danish and the French. We start our series with the Dutch and take a look at what remains of this once strong colonial power in India from purely a tourist point of view. The Dutch through the Dutch East India Company aka Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC) stepped in India as early as the beginning of the 17th century and left India in 1825. During their more than 200 years of existence in India they had built a number of forts, palaces, warehouses and cemeteries to bury their Kin, Which now remain as their footprints long after they had left for good. From Surat in the west coast, via Malabar and the Coromandel coast the dutch colonies were spread till Chinsurah( West Bengal) in the east. Let`s take a look at places- of what still remains of the Dutch legacy in India.
West Coast
Surat: In the Diamond City of Surat on the western coast the Dutch had established one of their many factories on the Indian soil. What has stood the vicissitudes of time is a solitary Dutch Cemetery. It is located in Gulam Falia area on the main road that leads to Katargam Gate. Though a bit difflicult to locate but this cemetery boasts of a number of exquisite monuments. Among others it also houses the grave of the famous Merchant and Botanist Van Reede van Drakesteijn. He was buried in Surat on 1692 AD. His grave stands apart with a huge tomb composed of columns supporting a balcony surmounted by a double dome. Surat is km from 326 Mumbai and 267 km from Ahmedabad
Bharuch: Bharuch perched on the north bank of Narmada River was a former trading post of the Dutch East India Company and also has an old Dutch cemetery. Bharuch is 355 km from Mumbai and 200 km from Ahmedabad
Vengurla: In the heart of South Konkan near the border with Goa lies the beautiful Vengurla by the Arabian Sea. It was here in 1655 AD a Dutch wakhar( Warehouse) was built by a Dutch trader named Leendart Janszoons for 3000 Guilder. Though the structure is almost ruined, but once it served as a store- house as well as a castle for the protection of Dutch trade interests. Vengurla is 534 km south of Mumbai
Ahmedabad: The Dutch cemetery, in Ahmedabad though not excactly in a very good condition stands on the bank of Kankaria Lake. Dating back to the 17th century and showing a mix of Indian as well as European styles the tombs can grouped into a)Domed tombs b)Pyramids, c) Walled tombs and d) Plain grave stones.
Malabar Coast Kochi: A lot of Dutch presence exists in the scenic Kochi on the Malabar Coast. Let`s explore them.
Mattancherry Palace: Although Mattancherry Palace is also called as the Dutch Palace but the Dutch were not the original builders of this two-storied, quadrangular building. In 1663 AD when they wrested control of Cochin from the Portuguese the palace came into their hands. They revamped the Mattancherry Palace. This landmark building is marked by simplicity in terms of its facade made up of white walls, sloping roofs and the trees around it.
Bolgatty Palace: The Bolgatty Palace was built by a Dutch Trader in 1744 AD on the beautiful Mulavukadu island near Cochin. A small boat journey takes you to the pace from the main land. This palace remains one of the oldest Dutch palaces to built anywhere in the world outside Netherlands. KTDC now runs a heritage hotel here.
Dutch Cemetery: Down the road from the St. Framncis` Church is the Dutch Cemetery where the first grave was laid as early as 1724 AD. The tombstones with their exquisite epitaphs narrate Kochi`s Dutch past.
David Hall: David Hall is 3 centuries old structure recently restored as a cultural centre and art café. It was the the residence of a famous Dutch commander and subsequent Governor of Kochi, named Hendrik Adriaan van Reed lot Drakestein. Built in 1695 AD it is located on one side of the Parade Ground in Fort Kochi area. It now serves as a platform to support young visual and performing artists.
Bastion Bungalow: Bastion Bungalow, a Dutch-style building is located near the Fort Kochi beach. Built in 1667 AD primarily to protect the harbour, the building is under the State Archeology Department. The bungalow gets its name due to its location on the site of Stromsburg Bastion of the non existent Old Dutch fort.
Thakur House: Thakur House built by the Dutch as a club is a beautiful example of architecture. Overlooking the sea the Bungalow stands on the site of the Gelderland Bastion, another of the 7 bastions of the old Dutch fort.
VOC Gate: VOC(Dutch East India Company) gate, is opposite the Parade Ground. As per the inscriptions in the gate this gate was erected by the Dutch East India Company in 1740 AD.
Dutch Cemetery: The 285 year-old Dutch Cemetery in Fort Kochi area is tucked away behind the end of the walkway that runs parallely to the beach. Consecrated in 1724 AD, the cemetery is the oldest European cemetery anywhere in India. It has a total of 104 tombs all resembling the typical Dutch architecture of that era. The Cemetery is surrounded by heavy walls. The entrance pillar with an original calligraphic inscription `1724` is also well preserved. Coromandel Coast
Sadras: Sadras located 17 km from world famous rock cut temples of Mamallapuram is an important 16th century Dutch settlement. Thanks to the conservation efforts of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), the Dutch fort of Sadras is now brought back to life. The rectangular fort just 100 metres from the beach has 4 massive walls running on all sides with flanking bastions on the eastern side. The fort has its entrance from the western side. The two cannons placed on either side of the gateway has stood the vagaries of nature and still stands. There is also a watch tower above this entrance. There are granary buildings( warehouses) on the northeastern and southeastern corners of the fort. Other structures restored include kitchen, dancing halls and dining rooms, circular tub for dyeing Muslin cloth. Within the precincts of the fort a cemetery can be found having exquisitely engraved granite tombstones. The inscriptions on the tombstone date from 1620 to 1769 AD and give details of the dutch nationals buried here. The English East India Company captured this fort in 1796 AD and virtually razed the structure by heavy bombardment form the sea. With the Granary suffering the maximum damages. Though the Dutch got back the damaged fort under a treaty in 1818 Ad but the English again recaptured it in 1854 AD. This was a watershed in and an end to the Dutch interests in the Coromandel coast.
Sadras is 75 km from Chennai ; 2 km from Kalpakkam
Pulicat: Pulicat lake which is about million years old is supposed to be the second largest lagoon (bay) in India. Lying 55 km north of Chennai, history reveals that the village on the shores of this lake adjoining the Bay of Bengal, was once an important trading post of the Dutch. The Dutch East India Company(VOC) had established a fort called Geldria in 1613 AD. However this for was destroyed and all that remains of by the name of a fort are pieces of a mud moat strewn across and well hidden by thorny bushes. Remarkably, two Dutch Cemeteries have stood the test of time and can be found in these ancient fishing villages. In the village of Nadur Maadha Kuppam close to the Church of Our Lady of Glory just about 100 metres lies the first Dutch Cemetery with about 22 protected tombs, in the time frame of 1631- 1655 A.D. This Cemetery is almost ruined due to neglect. The second one is closer to the market, in a better condition under the care of ASI, gives a good glimpse of the colonial Dutch architecture. The entrance to the cemetery that has some 76 tombs and mausoleums is flanked by stone pillars. Images of skeletons are carved on the pillars symbolizing life and death.
Pulicat lies 55 km north of Chennai.
To conclude on the Dutch Colonial remnants in India we trace what remains in the eastern part of India. The Dutch East India Company aka Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie (VOC) had established a factory at Chinsura in 1653 AD. It was founded by the Dutch Naval Commander, Van Der Brouckewho later on became its first Governor. This place on the banks of HooghlyRiver was their chief settlement from which the trade flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries. The Dutch were in here till 1825 before exchanging Chinsurah, their last settlement in India with British East India Company for the colony of Benkoelen in Sumatra (modern Indonesia). We trace a few Dutch monuments in Chinsurah, Hooghly district of West Bengal.
Chinsurah
DutchCemetery: The 250Dutch cemetery on Gorastan Road is now under the care of Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). The tombs on display throw up light on the architectural nuances practiced by Dutch of that era. Tombs with tall facades or mausoleums with grand brick work attracts visitors. The oldest grave here is that of Sir Corenelius Jonge who passed away on 10thOctober 1743 AD.
Monument of Susanna Anna Maria: The Tomb with a 8 meter high Dome is that of one Susanna Anna Maria Yeats "geboore Verkerk" . She breathed her last in 1809 AD. She was the wife of a VOC official named ‘opperkoopman Pieter Brueys’.
Residence of Dutch Governor: The double-storied residence of the Dutch Governor is now the property of the government of West Bengal and is the official residence of the divisional Commissioner. The spacious building has an imposing garden where two canons can still be found and a flight of stairs lead to the river from the backside of the residence. A special permission is needed to enter the building
Chinsurah is located some 50 kilometers from Howrah
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